Colour is having a strong moment in watchmaking. The latest releases of 2026 are moving beyond the traditional palette of black, white, silver and blue, with brighter greens, oranges, burgundy, turquoise and other distinctive tones appearing across both established and independent brands. In its September roundup, WatchPro identified bold colour as one of the key trends in current watch releases, alongside smaller case sizes and the growing use of titanium.

The trend has been particularly visible this week at Geneva Watch Days, which runs from September 2 to 6 and brings together 71 independent watch brands in Geneva. Several of the watches attracting attention during the event use colour as a central part of their design rather than a secondary variation. Gallet's return is a good example. Relaunched for its 200th anniversary, the historic brand introduced four new collections, including the Flying Officer. One of the new 40mm Flying Officer configurations pairs orange and green, a combination that would have been unusual in more conservative watchmaking only a few years ago.

Colour Is Becoming Part of a Watch's Identity

The significance of this shift is not simply that watchmakers are producing more colourful dials. Colour is increasingly being used to define the character of a watch. A traditional case can take on an entirely different personality through its dial, whether the colour is deep and understated or deliberately bright. At Geneva Watch Days, this can be seen across a wide range of new releases, from Bremont's compact Terra Nova models in distinctive British hues to Renaud Tixier's new Monday Organica in black and Bordeaux, while Oris introduced a colourful ProPilot X Gonzo Edition.

The same movement can be seen beyond Geneva. Bucherer, in its overview of 2026 watch trends, points to the combination of smaller proportions, refined use of colour and greater attention to detail as defining characteristics of current watch design. Colour is therefore not an isolated seasonal preference. It is part of a broader movement towards watches with stronger and more recognisable design identities.

From Colour to Materials

The development is also closely linked to the increasing use of unusual materials and dial finishes. Colour becomes considerably more interesting when it interacts with texture, natural variation or reflective surfaces. Stone dials, for example, have become increasingly prominent this year, with green aventurine, sodalite, jasper and onyx appearing in high-end watchmaking. Monochrome identified stone dials and bold colours as two of the defining aesthetic trends at Watches & Wonders earlier this year.

Geneva Watch Days has continued that direction. Gérald Genta introduced a Geneva Minute Repeater with a Golden Obsidian dial, where the natural variation of the stone means that each dial has its own appearance. Other recent releases have used lacquer, guilloché, textured surfaces, carbon and other materials to create depth and variation. The result is that colour is no longer simply a surface treatment. It is increasingly connected to the material and craftsmanship of the dial itself.

Why Collectors Are Looking for More Character

For watch buyers, this creates more room for personal choice. A black or silver watch remains an essential part of traditional watchmaking, but there is less reason for every watch in a collection to follow the same visual formula. Colour allows a collector to choose a watch according to personality, wardrobe, occasion or simply preference.

That is particularly relevant to independent watchmaking, where smaller brands can experiment more freely with design. Geneva Watch Days itself reflects this direction: the 2026 edition brings together 71 independent houses and has become an important platform for brands presenting watches outside the traditional large-scale fair model. The current wave of colourful releases shows that collectors are willing to look beyond conventional designs when a watch offers a distinctive point of view.

Colour also gives a watch an immediate visual identity. A movement can be technically impressive, but the dial is usually the first thing people see. A strong colour, unusual texture or unexpected combination can therefore make a watch recognisable before its specifications are even known.

Colour Has Always Been Part of Pilo & Co Genève

At Pilo & Co Genève, this movement towards more expressive watch design is not something new. Colour has been part of the Maison's creative language from the beginning.

At the heart of Pilo & Co Genève lies An Instinct to Live. This vitality is reflected in the watches themselves, and particularly in their use of colour. At Pilo & Co Genève, colour is not added simply to follow a fashion. It is used to give each creation its own personality and to offer the wearer another way to express themselves. Across the collections, different tones and combinations allow the watches to move beyond uniform standards and become more personal.

This approach is also connected to the Maison's Mediterranean roots. Pilo & Co Genève is a family story shaped by warmth, spontaneity and togetherness. Its watches are designed with the same philosophy: expressive without being excessive, distinctive without sacrificing elegance, and personal without compromising the traditions of Swiss watchmaking.

As colour becomes an increasingly visible part of contemporary watch design, Pilo & Co Genève sees something familiar in the movement. The industry may be rediscovering the possibilities of colourful dials, but for Pilo, colour has never been a passing trend.

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